Get Lost Mountaineering

The Paps from near Garries Bridge

Start/Finish

From Killarney, take the N22 road towards Macroom and Cork. Pass the church with a petrol station opposite at Glenfesk then continue for about another 1.5 miles. Just after a turning on the right, the road crosses the River Flesk. Immediately after the bridge there seems to be a large layby on the left in front of a house. Turn off here and take the minor road which almost doubles back. Follow it round a right hand bend then over a small bridge with a cattle grid where it goes left with a minor road joining from the right. Less than 100 m further is a wide opening on the right, at W 083 839, which is the start of a track which climbs to the ridge behind. Park here but do not impede any farm vehicles which might use the track. If parking does not seem possible, return to the main road and park there which only adds about 400 m to the walk.

Distance/Time

12 km      About 5 hours

Peaks

The Paps West, 690 m, W 125 855.

The Paps East, 694 m, W 133 855. (Irish National Grid System)

Irish OS Discovery Series Map 79 (1:50000)

Introduction

The Paps are two moorland summits, of almost equal height which lie about 20 km east of Killarney. The most interesting aspect of the walk are the two summits which sport cairms which may date from pre-history. In clear weather, there are good views especially to Crohane which is just across the main road but also to Purple Mountain and Macgillycuddy's Reeks. A good track gives easy access up to about 450 m. After here much of the going is pathless on grass and heather. In mist, care will be needed with navigation although there can be no mistaking the summits. There seems to be a mistake on the 2011, third edition of OSI map 79. The stream from the col between the two tops is shown to flow continuously from the Clydagh Valley, over the col and down to Lough Nageeha which is clearly impossible! Some guide books describe a route which starts further up the minor road and which is driveable to about 450 m. The landowner no longer allows access on this track. Even if access was allowed, a normal car would not reach the end of the track without considerable damage to its underside.

Route

(1) Go through the gate and walk up the grassy track which soon zig zags steeply up the hillside. When the angle eases, the track continues east and soon begins to shadow a prominent stream slightly to the N. Continue on the track until it crosses a shallow pebble filled and boggy ford to reach a grassy meadow. Except in the thickest of weather, a more prominent track will be seen leaving the far end of the meadow. This is the track which used to be driven up and was referred to above. Follow the track to its end where there is an old and rough turning circle. In clear weather, pick a way, roughly NE, up the hillside to reach the S ridge of The Paps West Top, aiming for the corner of the fence which needs to be stepped over to the path beyond. Turn N and ascend grassy/heathery ground to the very large summit cairn and trig point which mark the summit of The Paps West Top, 690 m. In thick weather, note the fence just before the last shallow ford before the end of the track. At the end of the track, contour N to meet this fence again and follow it up to a corner on the S ridge. Here the fence turns S along the ridge and is a newer fence. Cross the fence (no stile) but those with long legs will be able to step over. Unlike the fence followed up, the new fence has no barbed wire. From the corner, turn N and follow a fairly well defined path to the summit.

(2) From the summit, a path goes roughly NE, past a small cairn, then down turns more to the E and descends an edge with blades of rock on it which seem to become a wall lower down after a dog leg to the right. The “wall” ends just below the col on the N side from where a grassy strip/path leads up past some small blades of rock on the left, to reach the huge cairn which marks the summit of The Paps east Top, 694 m. Alternatively, descend slightly S of E from the W Top down heathery/grassy slopes, with virtually no exposure, to reach the broad, wet and mossy col. The wet ground can be avoided on the right, S, then ascend E to join the path already described.

(3) Retrace back to the W Top, by either route, then walk down the path to the fence corner. Cross the fence. In clear weather, the way back to the track will be obvious. In thick weather, follow the old fence down (hint of a path occasionally). When the fence crosses the stream and turns S, do not cross the stream but follow the bank back to the shallow ford and rejoin the track. The fence will have crossed back over the stream by then. Walk down the track. When the meadow is reached, the track goes down its right hand edge and reaches a bouldery ford where the stream flows from right to left. Do not cross here as it is not the ascent track across the ford. Instead walk to the other bottom corner of the meadow to reach the shallow, pebble filled and boggy ford, where the stream flows from left to right, crossed on the ascent. Cross the ford to regain the ascent track and follow it down to the start.

Notes

(a) This walk took place on 9^th September, 2012 and 11^th September, 2012.

(b) An alternative route, from the Clydagh Valley which is much shorter has also been uploaded.

(c) The Fossa camp and caravan site, at V 910 923 is very good and very well situated for the Killarney mountains, especially Macgillycuddy's Reeks and Purple Mountain as it is only about 3 miles from Kate Kearney's Cottage. At Fossa, there are camping and caravanning facilities as well as a hostel and static trailer vans can also be hired. For campers, there are excellent showers (small extra charge) and there is a good campers’ kitchen with tables, sinks and cooking area if you have your own cooker and pans. Gas rings are available (small extra charge). There is also a TV room. Reception is open quite late in the high season and the staff are very helpful. A computer is available for hire and there is a freezer in reception. There is a bus stop outside the site for Killarney. There is a 24 hour Tesco which is off the northern bypass (turn right at 4^th roundabout then right at next). Out of high season, it can be better for 2 people to rent a trailer van than to camp separately.