Get Lost Mountaineering

Corrour to Kinlochleven via Loch Trieg, Creaguanach Lodge and Luibeilt

Start/Finish

Corrour station is reached by train from either Tulloch, Roy Bridge, Spean Bridge or Fort William to the N or Rannoch, Bridge of Orchy, etc, stations to the S. There is a regular bus service from Kinlochleven to Fort William which takes about an hour and calls at Glencoe village en route where one could catch a bus south. If a friendly driver is not available for dropping off and picking up then either Fort William or Kinlochleven are the best starting points if one is using public transport.

Distance/Time

25 km      Approx 6 - 8 hours (walk only) depending on stops

Peaks

None. This is a glen walk mainly on paths and tracks. OS Sheet 41.

Introduction

This is a straight forward walk with fine views at Corrour including Leum Uilleim, Beinn na Lap, and even Ben Alder. The views from the foot of Loch Trieg include the Easains and. Creag Ghuanach. As Staoineag and Luibeilt are approached the views include Ben Nevis, Aonach Beag, Grey Corries and the eastern Mamores. After Luibeilt, the views then include Buachaille Etive Mor, Aonach Eagach, Garbh Bheinn (Kinlochleven) and down Loch Leven. The track sections are very easy to follow but, from Luibeilt to Mamores Lodge may contain deep puddles. The area around Luibeilt is very wet and boggy even in a dry spell. The river at Luibeilt is difficult to cross except in a dry spell and can be very dangerous after rain. On a warm day with little breeze, one can be harassed by clegs (a kind of highland horsefly) which can bite skin, even through clothes!

Route

(1) From Corrour station, walk north west along the path, usually quite boggy for about 2.5 km until it meets the track coming from Loch Ossian. This boggy path can be avoided by walking east north east towards Loch Ossian to pick up the track which heads west north west to the railway but this is about 5 km. An illegal, but short route, and definitely not recommended is to walk along the railway line to the bridge which the track goes under. If one has come in from the north on the early train (arrives Corrour at 0830), one has about 30 minutes before the Caledonian Sleeper has you in its sights! Once on the track, follow it to Loch Trieg then around its foot to reach, after crossing a decaying bridge, the uninhabited cottage of Creaguaineach Lodge which is an idyllic spot for a rest and a snack. The building is locked up but is kept weatherproof so it may be brought back into use one day. Note that if the bridge over the Abhainn Rain becomes unusable, there is no way to the cottage.

(2) There are two paths to Luibeilt. On the east/south side (cross back over the bridge) of the river or on the west/north side. The west side path is much the better. However, if the bridge is unusable one must stay on the east/south side. Also, if the route is not being tackled in a dry spell, then the river at Luibeilt cannot be crossed as there is no bridge and one would have to make a long detour upstream. After about 2 km, the well maintained bothy at Staoineag is reached. It is on the east/south side of the river but there are some stepping stones across if one is on the west/north side and the river is low. It is a pleasant place to sit inside for a break as it is a maintained bothy. Outside, there is a fine view of Ben Nevis and Aonach Beag.

(3) From Staoineag to Luibeilt, the path is significantly better on the north bank and the ground is less rough and boggy. If forced to stay on the south bank, try to cross the Allt Dubh tributary, about 700 m before Luibeilt, as close to the main river as possible otherwise one could end up making a lengthy detour. The ground around Luibeilt is very boggy even in an extended dry spell. The once fine house at Luibeilt is now a ruin with almost all of the roof gone and no doors and windows left. It was once a proud home to the local shepherd and his family. Not that long ago, one can imagine walkers passing by being invited in for a cup of tea and a girdle scone alongside a good old highland “blether”. According to reliable local information, Luibeilt's demise has been accelerated by the selfish actions of walkers who have stayed at the bothy across the river. They would cross over, sometimes by the now removed wire bridge, and remove anything which they could burn in the bothy. The doors and window frames soon went followed by floorboards and roof timbers. Now there is nothing left to burn and only the ghost of a house and home remains. The glens around here are virtually silent as all the sheep have gone as well, few birds are heard singing whilst the deer are being shot on sight because of a tree regeneration program. Some will dare to call this progress and be proud of it but they are not highlanders nor will they ever understand the highland way of life. Their ignorance may just destroy it forever. The silence of the glens may turn out to be more of a horror story than “The Silence of the Lambs”. Remarkably, the stone shed still stands to the north west of the house. It provides shelter from both the weather and the clegs.

(4) From Luibeilt, follow the obvious track south. This is initially very boggy but gradually improves. The track goes over a low bealach then descends to Loch Eilde Beag followed by Loch Eilde Mor. At the start of Loch Eilde Mor is another ruin which is a pleasant place to stop. The Corbett of Glas Bheinn looks down on the loch from the east whilst the Munro of Sgurr Eilde Mor dominates the north side of the loch. Continue past Loch Eilde Mor, about 4 km long, then climb out over another bealach, still on the track and passing the path (small cairn) down to the outflow of Loch Eilde Mor (on left). After the bealach, is the well cairned path on the left going directly back to Kinlochleven if one wishes to shorten the route. Just beyond are two paths going towards Sgurr Eilde Mor. Continue on the track and just before it swings north west, there is a marble bench seat which is an excellent viewpoint down Loch Leven. The track now detours north to cross the river before reaching the Stalker's Cottage which is bypassed by a path on the left, south. Soon after, the now closed Mamore Lodge is reached, a fine hotel in its day and a former hunting lodge used by King Edward VII. Cars can be driven to the lodge if one wishes to be picked up there.

(5) Mamore Lodge, walk down the tarmac road until it is crossed by the signposted West Highland Way. Turn left here and follow the path down to the road on the outskirts of Kinlochleven.

Notes

(a) This walk took place on 27^th July, 2011.

(b) One way to plan to cross the Abhainn Rain at Luibeilt if one is not sure of the river level is to carry a very light pair of beach sandals, with a toe and heel strap and a small towel such as a tea towel. Put the sandals on to cross the river, providing it is safe to wade (not always the case, especially after recent rain or snow melt), then dry your feet on the other side and put back on dry socks and boots. The sandals should protect your feet against any sharp rocks on the river bed. However, sandals will not prevent you being washed away if the river is high.