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Sgurr a' Fionn Choire, Bhasteir Tooth & Am Basteir from Sligachan

Start/Finish

Sligachan Mountain Rescue Post which is a little way up the Dunvegan road from the Sligachan Hotel. Plenty parking is usually available.

Distance/Time

11 km      About 8 – 9 hours

Peaks

Sgurr a' Fionn Choire, 935 m, NG 464 252.

Bhasteir Tooth, 916 m, NG 464 252.

Am Basteir, 934 m, NG 465 253.      OS sheet 32 but see below.

Introduction

This is one of the hardest sections of the main ridge and is well beyond walkers who are not climbers or top scramblers. The ascent of the Sgurr a' Bhasteir ridge and Sgurr a' Fionn Choire is relatively straightforward. The ascent of the Bhasteir Tooth by Collie's route from Lota Corrie is a moderate rock climb in places. The continuation to Am Basteir has one tricky move which is at least Very Difficult. The descent down the East ridge, towards the col below Sgurr nan Gillean, is straightforward if dry apart from a short “bad step” which is graded Difficult/Very Difficult. The descent from the col is down rough scree in Coire Bhasteir. For walkers, there are two options: either find a climbing friend or hire a guide (most take up to 4 people). Guides can be found on the Walking Highlands website. Bear in mind that even the guides may not take on this route in poor weather; many now lower clients rather than letting them abseil to save time. It is not unusual for queues to form at the base of the In Pin and one can wait for well over an hour at busy times.OS sheet 32 covers the walk but some will prefer the Harvey map of the Cuillin. The SMT used to publish a very good map of the main Cuillin (not including the Blaven range) which had the contour map on one side (unfortunately without grid lines!) and a diagram map on the reverse similar in style to that used in the SMC Munros book. In clear weather, the diagram map is probably the most useful as the others can be over powering with all their contours. There are many guide books for Skye but the most popular and comprehensive seems to be the SMC Skye Scrambles and is well worth buying. Note that a compass is unreliable on the Cuillin so be extra prepared in bad weather to cope without one. A compass needle may spin.

Route

(1) From the Mountain Rescue Post, walk a little way up the road, towards Dunvegan, and take the first path on the left. This soon crosses a new bridge then continues towards Coire Bhasteir. Ignore the plank bridge further on as that path goes to the foot of Pinnacle Ridge and the South East Ridge – often called the “Tourist Route”. Further on, the path splits with the left fork going into Coire Bhasteir and the right fork picking its way up the ENE of Sgurr a' Bhasteir. Take the right fork with this path going over rock at times which means it is not easy to follow in places but there should be no problems in clear weather. Hands will be needed on rock but any scrambling moves are pretty easy. It is a long ascent, however, and levels out on a rocky crest. Continue along this to reach the col below Sgurr a' Fionn Choire, directly ahead, with a very steep rock wall on its left side. Ascend the gully directly above the col. It is loose and needs care but is no harder than a Grade 1 scramble. The route goes to the right before coming back to the small cairn which is the summit of Sgurr a' Fionn Choire, 935 m.

(2) Retrace to the col. In clear weather, the Bhasteir Tooth will be obvious. Descend the rough path below the Tooth and Sgurr a' Fionn Choire keeping well to the left, below the Tooth, and descending into the upper part of Lota Corrie. Continue down to the lowest rocks on the left where there is a small cairn snug to the rock. This is the usual start. Scramble up and soon reach a gully slanting up and left. The gully is not visible from the start of the scramble. Once in the gully, follow it up with sections of very varying difficulty. There are a few obstacles on the direct line but these can be passed without great difficulty albeit with some exposure and the odd step down. Higher up are twin grooves and the right one is usually ascended first before switching to the left before a grassy section is reached then a slabby rib leads to easier ground. Above to the right is the continuation to Am Basteir. Continue up Collie's Route and descend a short cleft under a steep wall then ascend an easy angled slab to the highest point ahead which is the summit of the Bhasteir Tooth, 916 m. Sometimes there is a very small cairn.

(3) Retrace to where the ascent up to Am Basteir begins and scramble upwards to reach a traverse going right to a gully which cuts back left. Ascend the gully to reach a short section of easier ground and the most difficult move of the day. Ahead is an overhanging rock with a slabby ramp going up its left side. There is a small flake sticking out of the overhang which it is just possible to get a foot on from the slabby ramp. There is one small hand hold and it can be quite a committing move, even with a rope on. However, once stood on the overhang, it is possible to traverse across on increasingly better holds to reach a wall then use this and ascend the obvious gully to its top before going right and scrambling up, much more easily, to the small cairn which is the summit of Am Basteir, 934 m.

(4) Walk down the obvious crest of Am Basteir which is relatively straightforward when dry and reach a dip with an outside rocky corner ahead. This is about 3 m and has holds which will be easy for a climber or experienced scrambler but awkward for the average walker. Take your time and pick out the best holds for you. There is some exposure but not too off putting. Once up the corner, continue down the crest to reach the col below Sgurr nan Gillean. Follow the path down to the left and take the right option, lower down, which goes through some steep scree as it descends into Coire Bhasteir. Eventually, and with much relief, the corrie floor is reached and a good path leads across the lower slopes of Sgurr a' Bhasteir to join the outward path back to Sligachan. Under no circumstances be tempted to enter the gorge as it is a rock climb to climb out lower down.

Notes

(a) This walk took place on 24^th May, 2016. All three peaks have been climbed twice before in different combinations.