Get Lost Mountaineering

Luinne Bheinn & Meall Buidhe from Arnisdale by Boat

Start/Finish

Roadside/verge parking by the obvious long jetty in Arnisdale. From Shiel Bridge, take the Glenelg/Arnisdale road for about 19 miles over the Ratagan Pass.Shiel Bridge is on the A87 from Invergarry to the Kyle of Lochalsh.

Distance/Time

19 km (from boathouse near Fraoch Eilean).     About 9 - 10 hours walking.

Peaks

Luinne Bheinn, 939 m, NG 869 007.

East Top, 937 m, NG 872 007.

Meall Buidhe South East Top, 942 m, NM 852 987.

Meall Buidhe, 946 m, NM 849 989.     OS sheet 33.

Introduction

This is a tough walk over two fine mountains in Knoydart – the only part of the UK mainland with island status as there is no road in. They form a kind of horse shoe which most tackle from Inverie but they are very reachable from Barrisdale and one can get in and out in a day by boat from Arnisdale. Many underestimate the time to ascend these mountains so allow extra time if meeting a boat for a return trip. There is a lot of up and down between the two mountains especially when ascending Meall Buidhe. There is a bothy in Barrisdale which will provide shelter if you need to sit around for a while. It has a flush toilet and running water. It sleeps about 12 people. There is also a “camp site” by the bothy but the midges can be bad in the summer. Groups could consider going booking Barrisdale Stable or The White House (look up Barrisdale on the internet) which offer pretty good accommodation including showers but all supplies may need to be carried in unless a boat is organised. The walking route to Barrisdale usually starts at Kinloch Hourn and is about 11 km along the south side of Loch Hourn with 3 significant headlands to be ascended and descended. Getting a boat in from Arnisdale is a very good idea and the easiest approach but it isn't cheap especially for a solo walker. Boat contact details are in the notes. There are superb views to Ladhar bheinn, across Loch Hourn but, especially to Ben Aden and Sgurr na Ciche.

Route

(1) Walk S along the very obvious track to Barrisdale Bothy. Continue along the track and cross the bridge and follow the track, ignoring the left fork to the White House and then the left fork to Gleann Unndalainn. Stay on the path which, overall, heads SSW towards Mam Barrisdale (pass). Apart from one slightly steep section, the path is fairly gentle and one soon reaches the cairn marking the top of the pass. Before continuing, in clear weather, look at possible routes down the steep N ridge of Meall Buidhe. In clear weather, the ridge leading to Luinne Bheinn is obvious. A path leads from the pass but be careful following it as it does not get boggy and, if followed too far, it stays well below the crest, on the S side, and goes past the summit to the source of the Allt a' Choire Odhair. One would then have to cut back up steep ground to get on to the crest. It is best to join the crest as soon as the path starts to deteriorate or when a straightforward route up is spotted. This should be no later than Bachd Mhic an Tosaich and preferably before. Once on the crest continue up. If you are not on a path, one will soon appear. Follow it up to reach the medium cairn which is the start of the summit crest. Continue, for a short distance, along the crest to a similar sized cairn which is the summit of Luinne Bheinn, 939 m.

(2) Continue along the crest for a similar distance, crossing a dip, to reach a tiny cairn on a rock which is the East Top, 937 m.

(3) Continue onwards, on an obvious path, descending the south east ridge. There are few short rocky and slabby sections but it is not really scrambling. Lower down the path curves around to the right, SW, to reach the col near the source of the Allt a' Choire Odhair. There is a lochan down to the left of the crest. Continue, still on the path, and ascend the N ridge of Druim Leac a' Shith. The path misses the highest point but not by much for those who wish to go there. Continue down the other side to reach the Bealach Ile Coire after much up and down but still on the path. One is now at the foot of the ENE ridge of Meall Buidhe but there are still a few dips! Continue up to reach easier ground to reach a small cairn which is Meall Buidhe South East Top, 942 m.

(4) Continue along the crest and soon reach the medium cairn which marks the summit of Meall Buidhe, 946 m.

(5) It is quite a long way back. Some retrace over Druim Leac a' Shith then around the back of Luinne Bheinn to reach the path down Gleann Unndalainn. This route goes down the N ridge, directly from the summit. There is no path so it does not seem popular but it is the most direct route back. Those returning to Inverie would go down the long W ridge. The N ridge starts gently but steepens in places. There are crags but they are easily avoided. The ridge is marked on the map as going down Creag Dhearg and Druim Torc-choire. The ridge steepens lower down and a sort of gully appears. It seems easiest to stay left of this but some weaving around will be needed. Aim for the lowish Cnuic Nan Eildean ridge across the stream at the bottom. The stream will not be too difficult to cross except, possibly, after heavy rain. Cross the low ridge through one of its gaps then head N, crossing a more major stream, aiming to join the track from Inverie to the Mam Barrisdale. The ascent may be as much as 200 m depending on where the track is joined. From the Mam Barrisdale, retrace the outer route.

Notes

(a) This walk took place on 17^th June, 2016, and twice before, once from Inverie, once by this route.

(b) To enquire about a boat from Arnisdale, contact Peter Fletcher on 01599 235007. Where he actually drops you off will depend upon the tide but it will be no further away than the boathouse by Fraoch Eilean.